Boat Cooling System Diagram

Jet boat cooling system


Our last contest consisted of choosing the order of what to check to troubleshoot an overheating motor with a "raw liquid" cooling system. A few of our visitors asked me to clarify just what a raw water system was and exactly how it worked. Raw liquid is the water that the motorboat is floating in. It will make no huge difference if it is salt or fresh, both are acclimatized to cool off the engine. The procedure begins by drawing water to the engine through a seacock fitting and pumping it through the engine's water-jacket and harbors through a mechanical water pump.

In a natural liquid system water is drafted through the seacock because of the liquid pump. Water moves through engine and straight out the fatigue. This cooler liquid absorbs heat from the motor to help keep it cool.

Many newer marine machines utilize an enclosed coolant system. Which means that there's a little tank at the top of this motor that makes use of a mixture of fresh water and coolant. This fresh water is circulated through engine and through a heat exchanger. The fresh water, inside system, absorbs heat of this motor. Natural liquid is still used through seacock but just moves through the heat exchanger coat. This cooler raw water absorbs the heat from the fresh water through heat exchanger jacket and it is after that moved out of the exhaust.

The benefits of the encased system across natural water system are extreme, especially if you are operating in sodium water. Salt liquid tends to establish a corrosive scale if the engine functions above 140°. Into the raw water system this scale is increase inside the engine's water jacket and harbors. Whenever scaling builds to the stage that liquid circulation is restricted the engine begins to overheat. You now are likely examining changing the motor.

Within the enclosed system, the water that flows through engine's water-jacket and ports could be the fresh water and coolant. Really the only component the natural water moves through is the temperature exchanger. Equivalent scaling does occur but. When water flow is restricted and the engine begins to overheat you may be able to "acid boil" the scale out of the heat exchanger and continue to use it. The worse instance is that you would have to change heat exchanger. This could be significantly less pricey than changing the engine.

Various other the different parts of the cooling system, whether it's raw water or enclosed, will be the seacock, water strainer, hoses and clamps, devices and water pump impeller.

The seacock is a through-hull device that allows water to go into the hull through the outside. This device has a handle which allows one to shut down the water movement when you have a problem eg a loose hose pipe clamp or cracked hose pipe. You should test the seacock shut-offs month-to-month to make sure they have been operable. As a backup protection measure you need to have a soft, tapered, wood plug (called a bung) associated with the size of the seacock linked with the seacock. In case a hose parts while cannot operate the shut-off it is possible to place the bung in seacock to avoid the water circulation.

The following inline the main engine coolant system may be the water strainer. This might be a computer device by which the raw water flows and is designed to filter out dirt, sand, will leave, etc. before it reaches the motor. This product works much like a pool skimmer. There are numerous types of strainers but all have a removable filter or display screen that ought to be examined and cleansed or changed on a regular basis.



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